Book Review: Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Helen Joseph Armstrong
My patternmaking journey started my Sophomore year in College. I was enrolled in Beginning Patternmaking at my University, and the textbook of choice was: Patternmaking for Fashion, Helen Joseph Armstrong
I remember purchasing a used copy from Goodwill Online Store, and couldn’t wait for it to arrive.
More than 5 years later, I still have it and refer back to it often. Although this book has its drawbacks, which we will go into more in this post, I have so much love for this book because it was my first touchpoint for patternmaking.
If you have been looking into getting started patternmaking and wondering if this book is right for you - read on to hear my review!
Note: I will be reviewing the fourth Edition, as that is the copy I have and reference. Please note that the book has since been updated, and the most recent edition is the fifth edition.
Chapter Breakdown
Chapter 1: Overview of patternmaking tools, techniques, and general rules.
Chapter 2: Taking Measurements
Chapter 3: Drafting Basic Blocks: Bodice, Sleeve, and Skirt
Chapter 4-6: Dart Manipulation and Designing with the Blouse
Chapter 7: Adding Fullness
Chapter 8: Yokes, Pin Tucks and Pleats
Chapter 10: Collars
Chapter 11-12: Necklines
Chapter 13: Skirt Designs
Chapter 14-15: Sleeves
Chapter 16: Buttonholes and Facings
Chapter 17: Pockets
Chapter 18-20: Dresses (Strapless, bias cut, etc.)
Chapter 21: Blouses
Chapter 22: Jackets
Chapter 23: Hoods
Chapter 25: Pants
Chapter 26-28: Knits
Chapter 29: Swimwear
Chapter 30-36: Childrenswear
The book begins with a general overview of tools, techniques and measurements before moving onto drafting the basic blocks. It then covers pattern adjustment techniques, and finally the majority of the book focuses on specific garment styles and how to draft them. This is what I refer to the most often. If I am looking how to draft a cowl neck, a leg of mutton sleeve, or shawl collar - I am referring back to this book. It does a really good job of walking you through each specific style.
What I love about this book:
This book is more extensive than other pattern books I have. It covers nearly every style of garment under the sun, from swimwear to childrenswear to activewear. The last 6 chapters are entirely devoted to childrenswear drafting, and they are pretty detailed! So if you are looking for a comprehensive resource to learn patternmaking this is a great book for that.
It’s also a great first patternmaking book. Because it has additional resources like how to take measurements, how to draft basic blocks, and what tools you will need.
It is written by an American author, and therefore everything is formatted in imperial measurements. If you are familiar with inches, this book will be good for you!
The Downsides:
This book only covers womenswear and childrenswear. If you are looking for menswear drafting this is not the book for you.
I would say the techniques used in this book are more general than other patternmaking resources. I think that may have to be because it is so extensive, it can't go into very specific detail all the time.
A good example would be the sleeve drafting technique:
Unlike other sleeve drafting methods I have used (like the one from Metric Pattern Cutting for Womens Wear) the sleeve drafting technique used in this book is pretty general, and does not always correlate well to the armscye shape of your bodice, which can result in poor fit.
The same could be said for some of the collar drafting techniques in this book. They are based on general rules of thumb, and don't correlate much to the specific body size you are making the garment for.
This leads me into another BIG issue I have about this book, and that is that it does not do a great job in teaching you how to draft garments for plus sizes. In the fourth issue, chapter 2 has an entire page dedicated to “the ideal figure”. Which shows a standard size 4 mannequin. It goes on to basically say much of nothing, other than people use a “standard” when developing patterns and fashion lines, much akin to what we at CPMG would call a “fit model”. I feel like this book has an opportunity to speak about the challenges when designing a size range to fit multiple body types, but it just doesn't go there. If you are looking for fit advice when it comes to your unique body shape, this book just isn't going to cut it.
This is also not a grading book. So if you are looking for information on how to grade your patterns, this book is not the one for you.
If you are most familiar with Metric measurements, this book may also be a bit harder to read as everything is given in imperial measurements.
Final Takeaways:
This book is a staple in my patternmaking library. While it may not do everything perfectly, it is still a great reference book, and I would highly recommend it to any person interested in getting into patternmaking.
If you are interested in more patternmaking books, check out this post here where Victoria shares her favorite patternmaking books.
And if you are looking for more hands-on support, and the guidance of experienced teachers to help you on your way to becoming a patternmaker, check out our Confident Patternmaking & Grading Program.
